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From Bergdorf’s to Dover Street Market, Daniel Roseberry Reflects on His Stateside Schiaparelli Takeover

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From Bergdorf’s to Dover Street Market, Daniel Roseberry Reflects on His Stateside Schiaparelli Takeover

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“Did you know,” Schiaparelli’s Daniel Roseberry begins as he takes a seat in Washington Square Park on a balmy October evening, “that there was actually weasel musk in the original Shocking! fragrance?” That’s not the first thing you expect to hear from a creative director, but Roseberry is fresh from an appointment sampling scents. He won’t say for what, but the wink wink I’m doing right now is as big as a Roseberry-designed Schiap eye brooch.

I asked to meet with Roseberry days after his banger launch at Bergdorf Goodman, where his friends, family, and fans gathered to celebrate the opening of Schiparelli’s first permanent space within the store. Today, he opens two more American points of sale inside Dover Street Market in New York and Los Angeles as well as a spot in DSM London, and I thought it would be both fun and informative to trace the parallels between Roseberry’s path to 21 Place Vendôme and Elsa Schiaparelli’s own—because there are many.

Schiaparelli came from a mystical family of scientists and astronomers; Roseberry is a Texas pastor’s son interested in astrology. She brought French irreverence to America from the 1920s to the 1940s; he’s bringing an American sensibility about celebrity, identity, and freedom to France almost 100 years later. They are both Virgos.

“Did you know,” Schiaparelli’s Daniel Roseberry begins as he takes a seat in Washington Square Park on a balmy October evening, “that there was actually weasel musk in the original Shocking! fragrance?” That’s not the first thing you expect to hear from a creative director, but Roseberry is fresh from an appointment sampling scents. He won’t say for what, but the wink wink I’m doing right now is as big as a Roseberry-designed Schiap eye brooch.

I asked to meet with Roseberry days after his banger launch at Bergdorf Goodman, where his friends, family, and fans gathered to celebrate the opening of Schiparelli’s first permanent space within the store. Today, he opens two more American points of sale inside Dover Street Market in New York and Los Angeles as well as a spot in DSM London, and I thought it would be both fun and informative to trace the parallels between Roseberry’s path to 21 Place Vendôme and Elsa Schiaparelli’s own—because there are many.

Schiaparelli came from a mystical family of scientists and astronomers; Roseberry is a Texas pastor’s son interested in astrology. She brought French irreverence to America from the 1920s to the 1940s; he’s bringing an American sensibility about celebrity, identity, and freedom to France almost 100 years later. They are both Virgos.

“When I started, there was an attitude that was very much about protecting the legacy of Elsa. That has now relaxed, because people know that I’m only here to amplify her work, and also because we’ve started to make our own iconography so that Schiaparelli can mean something more than A Shocking Life. I think that’s what she would’ve wanted,” Roseberry says. “There is something so guttural about her work that I think is so much more interesting than filling a collection with too many references to the past.”

That’s really the best thing you can ask of a heritage brand in 2021, not fussing about what was, but producing fashion for what is. Roseberry repeats advice he got from the stylist Marie Chaix, with whom he works: “The only thing that matters now is your own intuition, your own instinct. If you’re not listening to that, it’s over.”

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